Trail Highlights and Landscapes

Saltaire: A Victorian Vision

The trail begins at Saltaire, a remarkable Victorian model village built by Sir Titus Salt between 1851-1876 for workers at his alpaca and mohair mill. This UNESCO World Heritage Site represents enlightened Victorian industrial paternalism: Salt provided his workers with decent housing, schools, hospitals and public buildings in stark contrast to the squalid conditions typical of industrial towns. The magnificent Salts Mill, now an art gallery featuring David Hockney’s work, and the Italianate architecture of the village create a fascinating start point that speaks to Yorkshire’s industrial heritage.

Ilkley Moor

The trail quickly ascends onto the moor, immortalised in Yorkshire’s unofficial anthem “On Ilkla Moor Baht ‘at” (On Ilkley Moor Without a Hat). This gritstone moorland offers dramatic rock formations including the Cow and Calf rocks, ancient cup-and-ring marked stones dating from the Bronze Age, and the mysterious Swastika Stone (a prehistoric carved symbol). The expansive moorland views across Wharfedale and the sense of space after leaving urban West Yorkshire create an immediate transition into wild country.

The moorland supports typical gritstone vegetation (heather, bilberry and cotton grass) and provides habitat for red grouse, curlews and golden plovers. The weathered gritstone tors and boulders create distinctive skylines and offer scrambling opportunities for those inclined.

Wharfedale and the Central Dales

The trail crosses into Wharfedale, one of the Yorkshire Dales’ most beautiful valleys. The landscape transitions from gritstone to limestone, creating dramatic changes in scenery and ecology. The limestone country of the Dales is characterised by white scars (exposed cliff faces), dry valleys, cave systems and distinctive field patterns bounded by drystone walls.

Malham and Its Geological Wonders

The trail passes through or near Malham, gateway to some of Britain’s most spectacular limestone features:

Malham Cove – A massive curved amphitheatre of limestone cliff rising 260 feet (80 metres) from the valley floor. The cove was formed by a waterfall during glacial periods when meltwater carved through the rock. Today, the waterfall only flows after exceptional rainfall, but the cliff face remains awe-inspiring. The limestone pavement at the top, a grid of clints (blocks) and grykes (fissures), creates an otherworldly landscape featured in films including “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows”.

Gordale Scar – A dramatic limestone gorge with overhanging cliffs and a waterfall, described by Wordsworth as “a place that looks as if it had been created by a convulsion of nature”. The scramble through the gorge is challenging but thrilling.

Malham Tarn – England’s highest freshwater lake sits on impermeable slate above the limestone. This National Nature Reserve supports rare plants and birds, and Charles Kingsley drew inspiration here for “The Water Babies”.

The geology tells a story spanning hundreds of millions of years: tropical seas depositing limestone, tectonic forces tilting and folding the rocks, ice age glaciers carving valleys, and ongoing erosion creating the features we see today.

The Yorkshire Three Peaks

The Dales High Way climbs Ingleborough and skirts the flanks of Whernside in the Three Peaks area, though the exact route may vary. These iconic mountains, Pen-y-ghent (694m), Whernside (736m) and Ingleborough (723m), dominate the central Dales skyline and attract thousands of challengers attempting the 24-mile Three Peaks circuit.

Pen-y-ghent – The most distinctive profile, with its stepped appearance created by alternating layers of limestone, shale and gritstone. The summit provides 360-degree views across the Dales and beyond.

Whernside – The highest of the three, a long whale-backed ridge offering extensive views. The ascent from Ribblehead is sustained and challenging.

Ingleborough – A massive flat-topped mountain with a summit plateau that once hosted a Romano-British settlement. The views are exceptional, and the mountain’s caves and potholes beneath make it a centre for caving.

Walking in this area provides a genuine sense of being in the high Pennines: exposed, windswept and exhilarating. The landscape is harsh but beautiful, shaped by limestone geology and centuries of sheep farming.

Ribblehead Viaduct

One of the trail’s most iconic landmarks, the Ribblehead Viaduct carries the Settle-Carlisle Railway across Batty Moss on 24 arches rising 104 feet above the valley floor. Built between 1870-1875, this engineering marvel cost the lives of over 100 workers (many buried in nearby Chapel-le-Dale churchyard) and stands as a testament to Victorian engineering ambition. The viaduct against the backdrop of Whernside and Ingleborough creates one of Yorkshire’s most photographed scenes.

The Settle-Carlisle Railway itself is one of Britain’s most scenic rail journeys, and the trail crosses it at several points, creating opportunities for section walking using the train.

Settle

This charming market town makes an ideal overnight stop. Settle’s narrow streets, lined with 17th and 18th-century buildings, rise steeply from the River Ribble. The town has a strong sense of community, excellent pubs and cafes, outdoor shops and a traditional Tuesday market. The limestone crags above town provide dramatic backdrops and rock climbing opportunities.

The Howgill Fells and the Northern Dales

As the trail progresses north, it enters quieter, more remote territory. The Howgill Fells, crossed in a six-mile ridge walk, mark the transition from the Yorkshire Dales to Cumbria. The landscape becomes more austere, with vast moorlands, fewer walls, and a feeling of space and solitude.

The northern sections cross high, exposed terrain where navigation skills are essential. In poor visibility, these moorlands can be disorienting, and the trail requires confident map reading and compass work.

Appleby-in-Westmorland

The trail concludes at Appleby-in-Westmorland, a beautiful historic town on the River Eden. The town’s broad main street (Boroughgate) rises from the river to the castle, lined with attractive buildings in red sandstone. Appleby Castle, parts dating from the 12th century, overlooks the town.

Appleby is famous for its annual Horse Fair (held in June), one of the largest gatherings of Gypsies and Travellers in Europe, with a history stretching back centuries. The town provides a satisfying conclusion to the walk, with good facilities, interesting history, and a sense of having crossed from one region (Yorkshire) to another (Cumbria/Westmorland).

Wildlife and Upland Ecology

The high-level route passes through upland habitats supporting specialised wildlife:

Birds: Curlews, lapwings, golden plovers and snipe breed on the moorlands (though all are declining). Red grouse are common on heather moorland. Birds of prey include buzzards, kestrels, peregrines, and occasionally hen harriers and short-eared owls. Ravens croak overhead, while ring ouzels (mountain blackbirds) inhabit the rocky areas.

Mammals: Mountain hares (introduced for shooting) inhabit the high moors. Roe deer are present in valleys, while rabbits are common on limestone grassland. Stoats and weasels hunt the moorlands.

Flora: Heather moorland on gritstone gives way to limestone grassland with its specialised flora including spring gentians, mountain pansies and various orchids. The limestone pavements support rare ferns in the grykes, while the moorlands bloom purple with heather in late summer.

Planning Your Walk

The Dales High Way is well marked but crosses remote, exposed terrain where navigation skills are essential. The LDWA lists OS Explorer maps 2, 19, 21, 31, 41, 288 and 297 and OS Landranger maps 91, 97, 98, 103 and 104 as covering the route. A detailed guidebook is strongly recommended.

Accommodation is available in towns and villages along the route including Ilkley, Grassington, Malham, Settle, Horton-in-Ribblesdale, Dent, Sedbergh and Kirkby Stephen (slightly off-route). Options include youth hostels, bunkhouses, B&Bs and hotels. Booking ahead is essential, especially during summer. Some sections have limited accommodation, requiring longer walking days or advance planning.

Terrain and Conditions: This is serious mountain walking with significant ascent (about 14,000 feet in total), exposed ridges and potentially pathless sections. Good mountain boots, full waterproofs, warm layers, map, compass and emergency supplies are essential. The high-level route means exposure to weather: wind, rain and low cloud are common even in summer.

Navigation: While waymarked, the trail crosses moorland where paths can be indistinct and visibility can drop suddenly. Confident navigation skills are essential. GPS devices or smartphone apps provide backup but shouldn’t replace map and compass skills.

Weather: The Pennines experience harsh weather. Wind speeds on exposed ridges can be severe, rain is frequent, and low cloud can persist for days. Check forecasts (the Mountain Weather Information Service provides detailed mountain forecasts) and be prepared to modify plans if conditions are poor.

Fitness: The combination of distance and ascent makes this a challenging trail. Good fitness and experience of mountain walking are essential. Training on similar terrain beforehand is advisable.

Safety: Let someone know your itinerary. Carry emergency shelter, extra food and warm layers. Mobile phone coverage is patchy on high ground. Consider carrying a whistle and emergency bivvy bag.

Transport: Saltaire has excellent rail connections via nearby Shipley and Bradford. Appleby-in-Westmorland has a railway station on the Settle-Carlisle line with connections to Leeds and Carlisle. The Settle-Carlisle Railway crosses the route at several points, enabling section walking.

Best Time to Walk: Late spring (May-June) offers long days and nesting birds but can still have cold conditions on high ground; summer (July-August) provides the most reliable weather and warmest temperatures; early autumn (September) often delivers settled weather with beautiful light and autumn colours; avoid winter unless you have winter mountain skills and equipment.

Why Walk the Dales High Way?

The Dales High Way offers a genuine mountain challenge in the heart of northern England. This isn’t a gentle countryside ramble but a serious high-level traverse that demands fitness, navigation skills and mountain experience. The rewards are proportional to the challenge: spectacular views, a profound sense of achievement, and immersion in some of England’s finest upland landscapes.

The trail’s high-level route means you experience the Yorkshire Dales from a different perspective than valley-based walks. You’re up among the peaks, crossing the watershed ridges, experiencing the weather systems as they sweep across the Pennines, and gaining understanding of how this landscape is structured.

For experienced hill walkers seeking a multi-day challenge without resorting to Scotland’s Highlands, the Dales High Way provides an excellent option. The combination of limestone geology, industrial heritage at the start, and the progression from Yorkshire to Cumbria creates a journey with narrative and variety.

The Dales High Way is for those who find satisfaction in physical challenge, who appreciate wild landscapes over manicured countryside, and who understand that the best views are earned through effort. It’s a trail that tests you but rewards you generously, leaving you with memories of vast moorland skies, dramatic limestone features, and the profound satisfaction of crossing northern England on foot via the high route.